DAY 2 18 July 2017 Kwelera

Ripening bananas in the kitchen

Ripening bananas in the kitchen

Hurtling down the longitudes I arrive in Johannesburg at 7am. Here they announce airport security like an exciting and sophisticated fashion trend.

I'm on my way to East London, a city-port in the Eastern Cape 1000Km east of Cape Town, on a domestic flight. It's 18 degrees when I arrive at 11am. I'm met by Claire Cockott,  friend from my York days. She and her husband George run an artist's residency near Kwelera.

Enroute  home is a visit to a seed merchant in the back streets of East London, to buy chicken feed, followed by the St Bernard's Hospice charity shop to buy a present for a neighbours daughter's  birthday. Sadly, they were right out of fairies....

Kwelera is a tiny village with a few shops and from there it's a 15 minute drive to Driftwood Studios. The studios and house are tucked behind the sand-dunes in an area of ancient dune-forest and I can hear the thunder of the Pacific Ocean in the garden.

I remember that exactly a year ago  I reached another ocean. The Atlantic at Finisterra on the Galician coast, at the end of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela.

There, the sea was a peaceful iridescent powder-blue, here it roars dark; sucking and rumbling over black basalt pebbles, strewn with abalone shells and driftwood.

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George and Claire beside the Pacific

George built the house on what was an old caravan park behind the dunes; it's a beautiful modern house with long arcades of wooden columns and polished concrete floors. My bedroom is on the ground-floor over looking the vegetable garden (which is regularly raided by troupes of monkeys) and has a lovely ensuite shower room with a hand-made sea-cobble floor. 

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The first floor colonnade  

Their family consists of two children, Angus and Anna, eight chickens who all have names, a cat and a dog called Buttons - who chases the monkeys!

But it's cool because it's midwinter here and I'm very glad I bought a hot water bottle, warm socks and pyjamas!

George and Claire's children are sleeping over at a friend's house, so we go out for supper in a local restuarant- then it's time to lie out flat. I'm going to sleep well after my sky-wandering last night.

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Amazing seaweed amongst basalt pebbles