I decide to book myself into a pension as a treat on my rest day. My own room, shower, no snoring and not having to sleep with my hand-bag!

American Justine recommended the Alburque Intxauspe and so I hot- footed there first thing, to wait for them to prepare the room. Very nice.

So I spent the day catching up with the blog, washing my sleeping bag liner and 'pillow case' and wandering around town.

I notice what I think is an art gallery and wander in - to discover it's the showroom of a carpenter/artist. We chat and he shows me his beautiful work. Mainly pieces by Basque dowry chests and more abstract works as well. Thick sections of pale limed oak exquisitely carved with geometric patterns.

Supper is provided at the Pension. Delicious! Spaghetti and salad, battered anchovies with egg and chips, creme caramel with strawberries and red wine. I eat the lot WHOOSH.

I share a table with two older Frenchmen and two German women. The men are a affronted that London has a Pakistani Mayor- I tell them he is British, but they are not convinced, but seem relieved that I will be voting to remain in Europe. This is the second such conversation I've had with French people in the last few days- interesting.

Bed early to enjoy my shower and clean sheets.